Major beauty product companies are using harmful ingredients in their baby products in the U.S. but not abroad- why?

Today I read a very disturbing report on how Johnson & Johnson is continuing to use dangerous chemicals in their baby shampoo here in the States, but have discontinued it abroad.  My first reaction was shock which then turned to outrage.  Isn’t Johnson & Johnson based here in the U.S.?  Isn’t it an American company?  And why then would they be less concerned about our American kids’ safety than those abroad?  I just couldn’t believe that this could be true, but after reading the story, it does appear that it’s right on the money.  However infuriating, we have American companies who feel like it’s OK to use harmful ingredients in our baby products here while at the same time they are substituting better ingredients abroad.

It all started two years ago when the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics released a report entitled No More Toxic Tub.  It exposed the beauty products for kids industry and revealed that many companies, including Johnson & Johnson, were manufacturing baby products with harmful chemicals.  These included chemicals known to cause cancer such as quaternium-15.  This chemical actually releases formaldehyde which is used to preserve dead bodies and causes cancer.  After this report came out, J&J stopped using the ingredient in their baby shampoo, but here’s the catch: not globally.  Apparently the babies in Norway, the U.K., Sweden, Japan, Finland, Denmark and the Netherlands were deserving of having this toxic chemical removed from their shampoo.  What about the babies in Canada, Australia, Indonesia, China and the United States?  Not so lucky.  Quaternium-15 is still in the baby shampoo being sold and distributed in all of these countries.  This is clearly despicable.  They have found a safe alternative and are manufacturing the shampoo without this carcinogen, but for some reason they think it’s fine to keep on selling it in certain parts of the world.

When asked why this is so, Johnson & Johnson gave a very weak answer that they haven’t gotten around to reformulating the U.S. formula.  What?  That makes no sense as they clearly have another formula that they are selling.  They also stammered that they no longer make new products with formaldehyde releasing chemicals.  Are we supposed to be impressed by this?  Really?  No new baby products with this known toxin?  Hooray!  It is actually infuriating. When polls are conducted amongst the U.S. public, Johnson & Johnson is consistently ranked as one of the most trusted brands. Clearly we all need to do our research and start reading labels.

So what can we do?  First of all, we must demand that our cosmetic companies hold our American babies and children in as high regard as international children.  The standard of care here should not be any lower than abroad.  As consumers we vote with our dollars, so stop buying these products immediately.  Tell your friends about it too.  This is dangerous stuff that no one should be putting on their baby.  Second, look for alternatives.  There are lots of small beauty product manufacturers that are making organic skin care products that are safe for babies and kids.  Buy and use those products instead.  Third, get involved politically to make sure that our government representatives pass stronger laws which prohibit large companies from poisoning our kids in order to make higher profits.  It’s just flat out unacceptable.  We must hold these companies responsible for their actions since they clearly cannot be left to hold themselves accountable.  Go green and spread the word.  We will not sit idly by and watch our kids get poisoned.

Cosmetics companies are polluting the environment with toxic chemicals they put in our products

There’s a dirty little secret that our nation’s cosmetic companies are keeping.  They don’t want you to know that the products they make contain toxic chemicals.   And we are not only impacted by these chemicals when we use their products, we are also affected by them in the pollution that their plants give off.  How do they get away with it?  They are an industry worth $50 billion a year in sales, and with all that money, they have a lot of power.  In fact the cosmetics trade association employs lobbyists who make sure that only the laws they want are passed.  These powerful lobbies have fought against laws that would monitor pollution at their plants, require additional safety labeling on packaging and insist on recycled materials in packaging.  They say that they are able to regulate themselves, which sounds a little like have the lions shepherd the lambs.  And do you know who currently reviews the safety of new cosmetic products?  Think it’s the FDA?  Or maybe another government agency?  Wrong!  It’s a cosmetic industry funded panel.  If you think it’s like letting kids monitor themselves, you’d be right.

Some people may ask, “What’s the harm?  Is anything bad happening because of it?”  Here are some scary facts.  Every day we use personal care products with a plethora of toxic chemicals in them.  How can this be?  The laws that govern the industry were passed over seventy years ago.  Think of how many new chemicals have been created over the past seventy years.  Those obviously aren’t included in any laws.  In Europe, the EU has listed over 1,000 chemicals which it considers toxic and that are banned from being included in products.  How many chemicals are banned in the U.S.?  Ten.  Yes, that is not a type- it is just ten chemicals which are considered too dangerous to use in our personal care products.  This means that even chemicals which are known to be toxic are allowed to be used in our products, and they are.  They also leech into our rivers and landfills in the form of pollution, so even if you buy organic products, you are still exposed to these toxins.

So what can you do if you want to protect your family and the environment?  You must vote, and you can do this in two ways.

  1. First, vote with your dollars.  Every time you purchase a product you are casting your vote for the company who manufactured it and the product itself.  The more votes, the more a product will be produced.  If we stop buying toxic products and demand organic ones, companies will be forced to stop producing them.  They are reasonable entities who first and foremost want to make a profit.  Make a product unprofitable and we make it go away.
  2. Second, vote with your vote.  What does that mean? Elect government officials who support anti-pollution laws and regulation of the cosmetics industry.  We have seen that the industry cannot regulate itself, so we need to step in and make sure that they are not irreversibly polluting the environment.

Remember that we are now powerless.  In fact, no one is more powerful than the American consumer.  So flex your power and let’s clean up the mess that the cosmetic industry has left.

Small manufacturers are producing green, clean personal care and household cleaning products

It should come as no surprise that it is the small, entrepreneurial manufacturers who are leading the way in the green revolution of personal care products and household cleaning products.  The large conglomerates like Johnson & Johnson and Proctor & Gamble turn out thousands of products each year, but have you ever really stopped to see what’s in these products?  All one need do is to read the label on any of the products and you will see that it is a toxic soup of a multitude of chemicals.  It literally takes a chemistry degree to decipher the ingredients and understand what’s in them.  And why?  Only a generation or two ago, our parents and grandparents used to use effective but simple products to clean their homes.  And these products contained ingredients we know and understand like baking soda and white vinegar.

Big business has industrialized both the home cleaning products industry as well as the personal care industry.  These products aren’t better than the natural ones, they are just toxic.  Every year the rates of cancer are increasing, and is it really any wonder? We slather chemicals on our skin and scalp and then leave it to our bodies to detoxify the chemicals.  And it’s not just the personal care products we use directly on our bodies.  It’s also the cleaning products we use in our home.  Take laundry for example.  Whatever laundry detergent, whiteners or fabric softeners you use on clothes then get put on your body.  And you skin absorbs the chemicals.  Or think about the chemicals you use to clean your home and the fumes they give off- we breathe them all in.  It’s even worse for your pets since they are down low on the ground coming into greater contact with the chemicals.

But luckily there is change coming, much in the same way change has come to our food industry.  Small manufacturers are starting to make their own natural and healthy products which work better than the traditional chemical ones.  Some are organic certified and some just use wholesome, good ingredients.  How can you tell which products are good for you?  Turn over products and start reading labels.  A good rule of thumb is, if you know what it is, and it’s something you can eat, then it’s probably OK.  Don’t be confused by the Latin names under which many ingredients are listed.  Usually the common name will put in parenthesis as well since few us speak Latin.  For example, if you see “Helianus Annuus” you may think that it’s a chemical because you don’t know what it is, but in fact it is just sunflower seed oil.

By supporting entrepreneurs in your area, you are supporting not only your own health, but a healthy eco system.  In America we vote with our dollars.  So by buying organic products from small producers, you tell the large conglomerates that they better change their ways or risk losing money.  And as we’ve seen with the food industry, big business will listen.  So visit your local farmers markets, shop online, or actively seek out small producers and support a healthier way of living.

Home remedy to treat eczema (part II)

Today we continue our discussion about natural home remedies for eczema and we will focus on herbs and oils.  It’s worth restating that there is no known cause of eczema and no known cure as of today.  So at this point, the best we can do is try to help the body relieve the symptoms of eczema.

Herbs and Oils to Treat Eczema

Gamma-Linolenic Acid (GLA) to treat Eczema

Nature is a vast storehouse of treatments and cures just waiting for us to discover it.  But while we search for a cure for eczema, we can at least use natural products to help us deal with the uncomfortable symptoms.  One very promising ingredient is called gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).  It may sound synthetic, but it’s a naturally occurring essential fatty acid.  GLA is an Omega-6 fatty acid has been found to help with epidermal proliferation, which is basically an overproduction of skin cells.  This is what happens in a person with eczema.  The scaly patches are a buildup of an overproduction of skin cells.  GLA has been found to help halt this process.  Borage seed oil and evening primrose oil are both high in GLA and clinical trials have shown that they can both aid people with eczema.

Essential Oils & Exotic Oils to help with Eczema

eczema home remedyThere are numerous essential oils which can help with the symptoms of eczema.  Essential oils have numerous fatty acids, phytosterols and polyphenos which can help with the symptoms of eczema.  Some of the ones which may be helpful include:

  • Borage seed oil- as discussed, borage seed oil is high in GLA which has been shown to help eczema suffers with controlling epidermal proliferation.  But it also has stearic acid which can help with moisture retention and oleic acid which can soften our skin and help with cell regeneration.  It also contains ferulic acid which is a powerful antioxidant and can help with reducing itching and inflammation.
  • Evening primrose oil- also high in GLA.  Evening primrose oil is very high in linoleic acid which means that is can reduce inflammation and the itch of eczema.  It also helps to soothe dry skin and restore a healthy barrier function to skin.
  • Rosehip seed oil- is rich in linoleic acid and linolenic acid and can help to increase wound healing and  reduce scarring, which can be an issue for longtime suffers of eczema.  The one warning is that if you suffer from acne, you may want to avoid rosehip seed oil as it can make acne worse.  Otherwise it is a wonderful oil to help regenerate new skin, heal wounds and diminish scars.
  • Sea buckthorn oil- this has recently gained some press as being a wonderful and exotic oil.  Sea buckthorn berries grow in harsh environments and have developed some amazing chemicals to help its growth.  It is high in palmitoleic acid and palmitic acid which are building blocks of healthy skin.  It is also exceedingly high in phytosterols and has some of the highest vitamin e levels known in plants.  It’s rich orange color also signals us that is very high in beta carotene.  It is very soothing to red, inflamed skin and is known for its healing and regenerative capabilities.
  • Pomegranate seed oil- contains almost 75% punicic acid which is a rare and wonderful fatty acid known as an Omega 5 fatty acid.  It helps to regenerate skin and has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is also rich in gallic acid and ellagic acid which can help with collagen production and are also anti-inflammatory.  The phytosterols in pomegranate seed oil also help with reducing inflammation and redness, two things which are of great help in fighting eczema.

Carrier Oils to help with Eczema

  • Meadowfoam seed oil- is very high in gadoleic acid and euricic acid which help to provide a protective layer for skin.  It is very moisturizing and can help heal dry, cracked skin.  It’s properties help it adhere to and stay on skin.
  • Macadamia nut oil- is particularly rich in oleic acid which is great for moisturizing, regenerating skin and as an anti-inflammatory.  It is also high in palimitoleic acid (like sea buckthorn) which is a building block of healthy skin.  Macadamia nut oil has catechins which are antioxidants and also have anti-bacterial properties, and it contains squalene which helps cracked and chapped skin.

Home remedies for eczema (part I)

What is eczema?

The word eczema comes from the Greek word ekzema and means to boil over.  It is a fit description since people with eczema literally have a problem with an overproduction of epidermal cells resulting in red, itchy, scaling skin.  Eczema can be an acute problem or a chronic problem although those with a short term problem are generally diagnosed as having dermatitis.  Actually eczema is known by many names including: atopic eczema, dermatitis, contact dermatitis, xerotic eczema and seborrhetic dermatitis.  While these are all forms of skin rashes, they are all considered under the family of eczema.

What causes eczema?

Skin health is a combination of internal factors and external factors.  There is a lot of debate in the medical community regarding what causes eczema and the real answer is that we don’t know.  Some believe that an over clean environment is the cause and that a lack of exposure to bacteria growing up has caused people to have asthma and allergies.  Others believe that eczema is an allergic reaction to the feces of dust mites.  There is also evidence that eczema could be related to food allergies, such as the consumption of dairy products.  If the body is unable to handle certain foods, it stands to reason that the skin could become inflamed and irritated in the body’s attempt to deal with the offending substances.

What is the treatment for eczema?

Unfortunately since we do not really know the cause of eczema, we also do not really have a cure for eczema.  That means that most treatments aim to reduce the symptoms of eczema, namely the redness, itching and scaling that occurs.  Some doctors prescribe corticosteroids to control the symptoms, but there are negative side effects associated with long term use.  These include a thinning of the skin and eventual atrophy.  For most, this is not a good solution.

  • Sunlight Therapy

So many people have started looking toward nature for home remedies to treat eczema.  One of the easiest remedies is sun exposure.  UV radiation seems to help many people with the severity of their outbreaks.  So if you live in a sunny area, spending some time outside in the sun might be a good idea.  You would not want to put sunscreen on the areas affected by eczema since the point is to allow the UV radiation to hit these patches.  You should however put sunscreen on any areas that do not have eczema.
eczema

  • Diet

Try experimenting with your diet to remove certain foods for two weeks and see what effect that has on your eczema.  You should try eliminating one type of food every two weeks so that you can isolate the problem.  Common foods which can cause food allergies include: dairy products, eggs, nuts, wheat, coffee and soy products.

  • Salt water

Some people have found that bathing in salt water can help their eczema.  Some people even travel to the Dead Sea in Israel to treat their skin ailments because of the supposed healing properties of the water and clay.  One thing to keep in mind is that it may be painful to wash sores in salt water, so be prepared for some possible pain.

Polyphenols and Phytochemcials in Skin Care

Have you ever stopped to appreciate what amazing things plants are?  They must feed themselves, reproduce, protect themselves from the elements and fend off animals, insects and microbes, all without being able to move.  They have no muscles, bones and brains to get any of this done.  So how do they survive?  They are chemical manufacturing plants, quite literally.  They produce phytochemicals which are chemical compounds that perform a myriad of functions.  It should be no surprise then that many of these phytochemicals and polyphenols are very good for us.  They do everything from fighting cancer to fighting UV radiation from the sun to fighting bacteria, fungus and viruses.  Let’s take a look at some of plants most amazing polyphenols.

Benzoic Acid

Benzoic acid is found in many plants and animals but is highly concentrated in gum benzoin and berries such as raspberries, strawberries, cranberries and pomegranates.  It has strong antifungal properties and is used in ointments combating athlete’s foot and ringworm (known as tinea).  It is also used as a food preservative because it helps to prevent the growth of yeast, mold and bacteria.

Phenolic Acids

Gallic Acid

polyphenolsGallic acid can occur either as part of a tannin molecule or as a free molecule.  It is found in almost all plants, but is found in high concentrations in grapes, witch hazel, tea, evening primrose oil, pomegranate seed oil, and mango butter.  Gallic acid has anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties and it acts as an antioxidant to protect our cells from free radicals.  Studies have shown that gallic acid can cause cancer cells to self-destruct while not causing any damage to normal cells.  It is an excellent wound healer and may have use in the treatment of psoriasis and hemorrhoids.

Ellagic Acid

Ellagic acid, also known as benzoaric acid, is produced by plants in order to protect themselves against pests and microbial infection.  It is found in berries and red fruits including pomegranates, strawberries, raspberries, cranberries and some nuts such as walnuts and pecans. Ellagic acid is a potent antioxidant protecting cells from oxidative damage, but its real strength has been found in its anti-cancer properties.  Research has shown that ellagic acid can interrupt the cycle of cancer cell development by binding with them and making them inactive.  It has been shown to have anti-cancer effects on a wide range of cancers including: skin, prostate, pancreas, colon, breast and esophageal.  There is also some evidence that ellagic acid offers protection against some chemically induced cancers.

Rosmarinic Acid

Rosmarini acid is found in large quantities in rosemary, lemon balm, sage, oregano, thyme and peppermint.  Rosmarinic acid has antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.  Its antioxidant activity is considered to be even stronger than that of vitamin e.  As an anti-inflammatory it helps to reduce the appearance of find lines and wrinkles and behaves like an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA).

Hydroxycinnamic Acids

Cinnamic Acid

Cinnamic acid is found in cinnamon oil and shea butter and has a honey-like odor.  It is another powerful antioxidant and also has UV protective properties.  It can also behave like an alpha hydroxy acid by penetrating the skin and assisting with cell regeneration.

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is found in the seeds of plants such as in rice, soybean, sesame, wheat, and oats, as well as in borage oil, coconut oil, and acai.  It is a powerful antioxidant and protects our cells from free radical damage.  It also would be a good addition to sunscreens as ferulic acid not only protects our cells from UV light damage, but ultraviolet light actually increases the potency of ferulic acid.  Ferulic acid also has shown anticancer promise and may lead cancer cells to self destruct.  Topical application of ferulic acid may reduce oxidative stress in skin.

Caffeic Acid

Caffeic acid is found in all plants because it is a key component of the formation of lignin, an integral part of plant cell wall structure.  It is one of the strongest antioxidants known to man and therefore does a great job of protecting cells against free radical damage.  It has been shown to have anti-cancer properties including shrinking tumors.  Plants that are particularly high in caffeic acid include coconut oil, soybeans, and mango butter.  Tests have shown that caffeic acid protects cells against both UVC and UVB ultraviolet radiation.  It has also shown promise as an anti-fungal remedy.

Coumarin

Coumarins are found in many plants including tonka beans, coconuts, cinnamon, lavender, and sweet clover.  It is quite fragrant and smells like vanilla or freshly cut hay.  It appears to work as a pesticide in the plants that produce it and also has appetite suppressing effects.  It is believed that this is to reduce the destructive impact of foraging animals.  The quicker they fill up, the quicker they move on and stop grazing.  Coumarin is interesting in that it’s both toxic and has medicinal uses.  It is moderately toxic to humans when ingested in large amounts, but very toxic to rats.  Benefits of coumarin range from anti-cancer to anti-fungicidal to anti-inflammatory to antioxidant properties.  But it thins the blood and should not be used by people on anticoagulants.  Coumarins are a positive addition to sunscreens as they are able to block out short wave UV rays while allowing the long wave UV rays in.  These long wave rays are the ones that give us a beautiful tan.

Flavonoids

Quercetin

Quercetin is a flavonoid found widely throughout nature.  Foods rich in quercetin include: tomatoes, green tea, red onions, olive oil, grapeseed oil, berries, sea buckthorn, apples, mango butter, and broccoli to name a few.  Preliminary research has shown anticancer, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

Rutin

Rutin is a flavonoid that is similar to quercetin.  It is also found widely throughout nature although the richest source is buckwheat.  Other sources of rutin include citrus fruits and berries.  It is an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant and also offers UVA protection.

Linolenic Acid (ALA) and Skin

What is Linolenic Acid?

Linolenic acid is also known as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and it is a polyunsaturated fatty acid.  It is also one of the essential fatty acids (EFA) and is part of the Omega 3 group.  Essential fatty acids are important to our health because they are critical fatty acids that the body needs, but cannot produce on its own in significant amounts.  ALA has a lipid number C18:3 which means that it has an 18 carbon chain and three double bonds.  The three double bonds denote that they can be easily broken by free radicals and these oils tend to go rancid quickly.

Recently Omega-3 fatty acids have become very popular in the media as a critical supplement that people should take.  This is because they have been linked to preventing chronic illnesses such as arthritis and heart disease.  They have also been shown to reduce inflammation in the body and may help to treat high blood pressure and heart disease problems.  These fatty acids are found in high concentrations in the brain and it’s not a far stretch to imagine that they contribute to behavioral and brain health in addition to normal development.  We need both Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids and we need them in the correct proportion.  It is estimated that for early humans the ratio was 1:1 but today’s man tends to get a ratio closer to 10:1.   Many believe that it the overabundance of Omega-fatty acids on our diet that leads to inflammation in our systems.

How does Linolenic Acid Help Our Skin?

Linolenic acid is good for our skin and helps to provide moisture as well as anti-inflammatory benefits. For those with itchy skin or scalps, it can be useful to apply oils high in linolenic acid. There is also some evidence that linolenic acid can help those with acne. There is some debate in the medical community as to whether or not alpha-linolenic acid helps those with eczema or psoriasis. Regardless, it is known that a lack of ALA can lead to dry, itchy skin as well as brittle hair and nails.

Lab tests on animals have shown that Omega-3 fatty acids can help promote wound healing in burned skin. It appears that they help establish a healthy balance of proteins which is essential for burn victims in their recovery process.

What Oils are High in Linolenic Acid?

We can get our omega 3 fatty acids from oily fish and seafood such as salmon, sardines and anchovies, but they are little different than alpha linolenic acid. Those sources of Omega 3s come as longer chain eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Our bodies can convert ALA to EPA and DHA so it is still beneficial for us to eat foods rich in ALA. The most common sources of alpha linolenic acid are seeds. It should come as no surprise that the plant oils highest in linolenic acid come from the various seeds.

Some of the foods high in linolenic acid include:

rosehip seed oil

  • Rosehip seed oil (33%) Has a shelf life of about 6 months
  • Cranberry oil (30%) Has a shelf life of about 2 years
  • Hempseed oil (25%) Has a shelf life of about 3 to 6 months
  • Soybean oil (8%) Has a shelf life of about 6 months

Linoleic Acid and Skin

What is Linoleic Acid?

Linoleic acid is a polyunsaturated fatty acid that is required for our good health and is involved in healthy hair, skin and wound healing processes.  Linoleic acid is literally essential to our health and is known as an essential fatty acid, which means that we must eat foods with it in order to have optimal health as we cannot produce it ourselves.  Many people will know it by the more common name, Omega 6 fatty acid.  It has a lipid number C18:2 which means that it has an 18 carbon chain and two double bonds.  The implication of these two double bonds is that linoleic acid can go rancid more easily than other fatty acids with just one or no double bonds.  That means that it will have a shorter shelf life than other fatty acids such as stearic acid or lauric acid.

How does Linoleic Acid Help Our Skin?

linoleic acidLinoleic acid is a wonderful addition to any skin care product because it is so essential to healthy skin.  It is critical in the development and maintenance of a healthy skin barrier.  The skin barrier function is a multitasked process that involves providing a first line of defense of the body to keep harmful chemicals out of our systems and keep in moisture and essential nutrients.  These harmful elements can include toxins, germs, dirt, pathogens, bacteria and viruses.  Anything foreign that makes its way into the body must be dealt with by the immune system, so the more that is kept outside the body, the more the immune system is freed up to tackle invading objects.  In addition to keeping foreign bodies out, the skin barrier function must keep moisture and nutrients in.  Moisture is a critical component in skin health and without it our skin quickly becomes dry and cracked.  Dry and cracked skin is not only itchy and bothersome, it is also unable to protect us and keep out foreign intruders.  A deficiency in linoleic acid can quickly lead to dry skin and poor wound healing.

Studies have shown that linoleic acid’s function in our skin can go beyond just helping to provide a healthy skin barrier. It is also can act as an acne reducer and anti-inflammatory.  Studies found that people with acne and dermatitis have reduced levels of linoleic acid in their skin.  The topical application of linoleic acid can therefore reduce acne as well as reduce scaling on the skin.  Atopic dermatitis, a type of eczema, is characterized by red, inflamed, itchy and often scaly skin.  It is a very uncomfortable and unsightly condition that plagues its victims.  The ability of linoleic acid to act as both an anti-inflammatory and scale reducer holds great promise in the fight against eczema and dermatitis.

What Oils are High in Linoleic Acid?

The word linon in Greek means flax, although ironically flax seeds are more associated with another essential fatty acid, Omega 3 fatty acids.  Luckily there a wide range of delicious nuts, seeds and oils which are high in linoleic acid.  We can either put the oils on our skin or ingest the foods to reap the benefits of linoleic acid for our skin.evening primrose oil
Some of the foods high in linoleic acid include:

  • Safflower oil (78%) Has a shelf life of about 6 months
  • Grapeseed oil (71%) Has a shelf life of about 3-6 months
  • Evening primrose oil (70%) Has a shelf life of about 6 months
  • Sunflower oil ( 67%) Has a shelf life of about 6 months
  • Hempseed oil (57%) Has a shelf life of about 3-6 months
  • Pumpkin seed oil (57%) Has a shelf life of about 6-12 months
  • Soybean oil (53%) Has a shelf life of about 9 months
  • Sesame oil (46%) Has a shelf life of about 9-12 months

There are of course many more sources of linoleic acid including not just other nuts and oils but also egg yolks, chicken fat, butter and lard.

Fatty Acids and How They Help Our Skin

This will be the first in a series of blogs on fatty acids and how they are fundamental to healthy skin.  Lucky for us, we can get fatty acids two ways: we can eat them in our foods and we can apply them directly on our skin.  First let’s look at fatty acids.

What are fatty acids?

Fatty acids are considered to be “good” fats and are used by mitochondria in our cells for energy.  We need them in our diets for several reasons including cell membrane development and healthy functioning of our organs and tissue.  They are therefore essential in keeping our skin healthy.  There are many different categorizations of fatty acids including: saturated vs. unsaturated, the length of the chain of fatty acids; and if they are essential (meaning that we cannot produce them).  We can produce all of the fatty acids we need within our own bodies except for two fatty acids (the essential fatty acids).

Essential Fatty Acids Overview

The two essential fatty acids which we cannot adequately manufacture within the human body because we lack the enzymes are alpha-linolenic acid (Omega 3 fatty acids) and linoleic acid (Omega 6 fatty acids).  Oils rich in Omega 6 fatty acids include grapeseed oil, palm kernel oil, evening primrose oil, pumpkin seed oil and sesame oil.  Generally we think of foods rich in Omega 3 being fish or seafood, but there are some plants, such as hempseed or flax, that are also sources of it.

Classifications of fatty acids

fatty acids
Fatty acids are classified according to the length of their chains into one of the following four categories: short chain, medium chain, long chain and very long chain fatty acids. The determining factor is how long the aliphatic tails are in the acid.

Fatty acids are also broken down into whether they are saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.  Unsaturated fatty acids have more than one double bond between carbon atoms whereas saturated fatty acids have no double bonds.  These double bonds make unsaturated fatty acids more prone to rancidity.

Saturated Fatty Acids:

  • Behenic acid
  • Lauric aid
  • Myristic acid
  • Palmitic acid
  • Stearic acid

Unsaturated Fatty Acids:

  • Alpha Linolenic acid
  • Erucic acid
  • Linoleic acid
  • Oleic acid
  • Palmitoleic acid

The Skin

And now let’s turn our attention to the skin, the most wonderful of organs.  The skin is not only our largest organ, it also has a very complex job.  It must both provide a barrier (keeping bad stuff out and good stuff in) and behave as a passage (allowing bad stuff out and good stuff in).  What do I mean by this?

Barrier function of skin

  1. Keep good stuff in:  skin must hold in all of our blood, organs, fat, moisture, and basically anything that should be contained in the human body.  It helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  2. Keep bad stuff out: skin in our first line of defense in keeping out harmful bacteria, viruses, fungus, chemicals, and pathogens.  If they can break the skin barrier, then our systems need to work hard to fight them off or we get sick.  It’s much easier to keep them out in the first place.

Passage function of skin:

  1. Let in the good stuff: skin must allow things like moisture, oxygen, nutrients, and sunlight (to make vitamin D) in through our skin in order for us to function properly.
  2. Let out the bad stuff: skin must allow things like our sweat, toxins, and other waste product to be expelled out of the skin.  It’s the body’s way of cooling and cleansing and necessary to our health.

Human skin is comprised of fatty acids in varying amounts.  Here’s one table I found breaking them down (but I can’t vouche for the veracity of this table):

  • Oleic acid- 30.8%
  • Palmitic acid- 20.2%
  • Linoleic acid- 15.1%
  • Stearic acid- 11.2%
  • Palmitoleic acid- 3.8%
  • Myristic acid- 2.1%
  • Linolenic acid- 0.3%

So we can see that skin has a very complicated job indeed!  How does it both create a barrier and a passage way letting things in and out and keeping things in and out?  In order to do this, skin must be flexible, soft, supple and healthy.  It does this by utilizing fatty acids to create a flexible barrier that can also prevent and repair any damage to the skin.  Tomorrow we’ll take a look at how fatty acids help the skin.

What are phytosterols and how are they good for our skin?

Yesterday we talked about polyphenols and today we’ll cover phytosterols.  Phytosterols are a group of plant-derived sterols and stanols.  According to the National Institutes of Health (NIH) there are in excess of 200 phytosterols occurring in the plant kingdom found in such foods as nuts, vegetable oils and beans.  phytosterols
They are phytochemicals that are similar to cholesterol in their function and structure.  Cholesterol has gotten a bad rap in today’s press.  We tend to think of cholesterol as something bad that we don’t want in our system.  But that couldn’t be further from the truth.  Cholesterol is a critical component of our bodies and we couldn’t live without it.  Cholesterol is the main structural component of cell membranes, and when it comes to skin tissue cholesterol makes up about 25% of it.  The amount of cholesterol in a type of tissue determines how permeable they are.  The skin plays a dual role in our bodies in that it needs to keep the bad stuff out (like bacteria and viruses) but also allow the good stuff in (like fatty acids and sunlight).  But plants don’t generally have cholesterol in their structure.  Instead they have phytosterols and these phytosterols play a similar role in plant membranes that cholesterol plays in ours.

What does cholesterol do in our skin?

In addition to creating 25% to the structural component of our skin, cholesterol has a very important function in helping us to produce Vitamin D.  We can get some of our vitamin D from foods such as cod liver oil, egg yolks and herring,  and it is no coincidence that these foods are also high in cholesterol.  We can also manufacture Vitamin D in our bodies as a result of the interaction between the sun and the cholesterol in our skin.  What happens is that the UV-B radiation from the sun hits our skin and turns 7-dehydrocholesterol (a form of cholesterol) into Vitamin D3.  Vitamin D is critical to many of body’s systems including:

  • Bone health and calcium metabolism
  • Cancer prevention
  • Immune system functioning
  • Blood sugar regulation

And so perhaps you can see the conundrum- we need cholesterol and the sun in order to produce Vitamin D and be healthy, but the sun can also be damaging to the skin.  What to do?

What do phytosterols do for our skin?

In comes phytosterols to the rescue.  According to a study done in Germany, topical application of phytosterols actually stimulated new collagen production in skin.  This can help to counter the aging effects of the sun. The phytosterols from plants actually penetrate into our skin and help our skin in much the same way that cholesterol does.  So why not just put cholesterol on skin?  Unfortunately it’s not that easy becaues when cholesterol is applied directly to the skin, it generally causes acne and inflammation.  Luckily applying phytoserols to the skin results in the opposite and actually decreases inflammation and increases elasticity. The phytosterols help our skin’s barrier mechanisms by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).  This helps keep the moisture and plumpness in our skin so it doesn’t dry out.  It can also help repair skin that has been damaged by sun burn or sun damage.